Day 7 (Sept 16) - Rest Day - Mt Gambier

It has been the most fabulous day! It all started with a bath. Thank the Lord for these good old fashioned pubs originally designed by a decent English gentleman. I think the pub was built around the bath. It was a good way to start the day.

As I approached Mt Gambier late yesterday, I could see off in the distance this very distinctive tall castle like landmark that stood out like a tall citadel rising out of a flat plain. I was thinking that I was grateful my ride didn't end on that. Well in fact it did. The tall citadel is actually the top edge of an extinct volcano around which Mt Gambier is built, the Volcano being called 'Mt Gambier' by Lieut James Grant when he sighted it from his sloop in 1800. The region is called the Limestone coast, and is part of the Kanawinka Global Geopark, and is Australia's most extensive volcanic province. So it was on with the hiking boots, and with map in hand I spent the day exploring this magnificent geological masterpiece originally inhabited by the Boandik people, sadly as extinct as the volcanoe itself.

First was "Cave Garden", in the centre of the town. It is a large 'sinkhole' and source of original water supply for the early settlers. It is connected to the significant subterranean water courses that flow under the area of the Limestone coast. From there I went to see the "Lady Nelson", a full scale replica of the original sloop skippered by Lieut James Grant. But the real treat of the day was to scale the tip of the lip of the volcano, and enjoy God's incredible garden landscape along the way.

Firstly 'Blue Lake'. The middle of the volcano contains two massive lakes, one of them which turns a brilliant blue from November due to a unique engagement with the sun's rays. Ironically its twin lake (Valley Lake) adjacent, is not affected by the sun in this way. Being on foot, the journey was a total of almost 15k (I know, supposed to be a rest day) but the engagement with God's incredible creation was worth the experience (and another bath!). In the background is the pinnacle of the volcano lip with a tower, called Centenary Tower, which I was yet to scale.

 Just another angle. The locals kept telling me the lake was not yet blue! Wait for November! It is also the source of the town water supply, and has been for over 100 years. It draws 400million megalitres annually - can you tell? Apparently it is a mere 2 metres lower than 100 years ago! However, that is not due to town consumtion but by the drying of the underground water.

 As I walked, I found sections where the earth had been cut away, revealing large clumps of volcanic rock (that looked like coke). This was evidence that the volcano was active in 'recent' history. It was a geography teacher's paradise! It was incredible to think that I was actually walking around the top of the lip of probably Australia's most clearly distinct volcanoe. There was more to come.

It was quite a climb, but several kilometres later I had not only completed the circuit of Blue Lake, but headed up along the escarpment to the very top of Centenary Tower, the highest point of the volcano. The Tower was constructed just after 1900 to mark the centenary of the original sighting by Lieut James Grant. The stones were carved by stonemasons lower down, and then hauled up by horses. The poor things. It was a very steep, and very narrow climb, the lip at most a cart width for the last 500mtrs or so. The view - glorious!

This was the climb, the track marking the actual lip of the volcano. Just left is 'Valley Lake' (ie not 'Blue'). To the right is open, breathtaking beauty of the fields to the coast, and another volcanoe called Mt Schank, also named by Grant.

I am extending my expertise as a photographer, one of the barrier breaking neccessities of travelling alone. Looking back to the Tower as I descended the 'back' side, looking down at Valley Lake.

Having my own GPS on board, I turned it on at the tower. It told me I had ascended 175mtrs altitude, most of it over 2 klm - with a mighty steep last 1k. It was a pity to turn my face to 'home'.

Speaking of 'home', this is it - the 'Commercial' - not a good looker on the outside, but it made up for it on the inside. For $30 a night it was a bargain. The girl who signed me in asked me to fill out a registration form 'just in case we burn down'. What a comforting thought, I pondered as I completed my registration details. "One question though" I politely asked "If we burn down tonight....won't this paper burn also?" It was just a thought. There was no response either, just a cute look.

I will be sad to leave tomorrow. I head out on the 'Riddoch' Highway, the A66 to Penola then Naracoorte, my destination for tomorrow. Time permitting, I will call at the 'Naracoorte Caves', a spectacular example of limstone ancient landscape. Weather for tomorrow is sunny.....and wait for it, the suggestion of SW winds at 8kph!! Yes, that means 'wind to my back' for the first time.

I have decided to cut out Robe and the Coorong coast, and head for Murray Bridge, and then also cut out the side trip to strathalpin and Goolwa. This is the only way I can stay with the schedule to get myself back to Canberra in time. As it is, I may have to make a decision at Albury. That is a week away.

As I walked around Blue Lake today, as magnificent a sight that it was, my attention was struck by another sight of stunning beauty - it was a tiny little blue 'bobtail' - a bird, about the size of which you could cradle within the cup of your hand. It was native to 'Blue Lake'. I was left to ponder then - what was the greater sight? I thought of the Psalmist again speaking of God who said "I have no need of a bull from your stall or of goats from your pens (ie the offerings of man); for every animal is mine, and the cattle on a thousand hills. I know every bird  in the mountains, and the creatures in the field are mine".

The pilgrimage continues tomorrow...

KRA