Day 2 (Sept 11) - Geelong to Apollo Bay - 118k

The Great Ocean Road is probably the worlds largest memorial site. Being some 270k long, it was started in 1919 as a project to engage thousands men returning from World War 1. It took some 14 years to complete, but brought much prosperity by linking the many Victorian villages exisiting along the spectacular Victorian coastline. Now a mecca for tourists, it affords spectacular views to the ocean, but also cuts a fringe along some of the most magnificent natural wilderness in Australia.

I left my lovely 'Admiralty Motel' in McKillop St Geelong this morning at about 8am. One of the great joys of cycle touring is meeting wonderful people. Linda, who runs the Motel, took great care of this stranger and coudn't do enough for me. I arrived weather beaten and discouraged, but Linda showed genuine 'hospitality', a genuine reflection of the nature of God Himself who encourages us all in a genuine 'love of strangers'. If passing through Geelong, stay at the Admiralty!

Linda stood on the wet road and pointed the way out of town. Minutes later, it deluged as I headed for Torquay at the start of the Ocean road. Within minutes I was drenched - my shoes full of water, visibility seriously impaired, having to wrestle the bike in the high winds that battered into me all day long. I headed for Anglesea, where I should've finished the night before, and now doubtful of getting back on track - the sheer distance to Lavers Hill for tonight being too big a stretch in these conditions.

As it was, my goal was to at least get to Apollo Bay by nightfall. It was all ahead of me, but little did I know of the human struggle that the day would entail. The rain fell out of the sky until I hit the Ocean Road. The sky cleared somewhat, but the WSW winds blew with a fury all day. It was 2-3 hours of struggle before arriving at Anglesea, some 45k from Geelong. I huddled in a bus shelter, and set up the small 'cooker' I was carrying. I enjoyed my porridge with sultanas, and a hazlenut coffee made on milk. Met some cyclists in town who decided to go straight to the coffee shop instead of their morning ride - they said I was the only cyclist brave enough (silly enough?) to be out in these conditions. From here the road becomes more exposed, hugging the raw coastline. The climb out of Anglesea was probably the steepest climb of the day, the bike heavy with load just crawled up and over the pinnacle. It was a picturesque spot, but the conditions hardly conducive to even getting off the bike.

It was another 30k or so to the beautiful village of Lorne, where I hoped to make by 1pm for lunch. It was such misrerable conditions, the violent head winds incessantly in my face, slowing the speed of the bike at times to a mere 6kph! The road almost entirely now hugs this rugged coastline, with incessant 'ups' and then some welcome 'downs' but the dreaded wind would even ruin a good run downhill. My legs were surprisingly good all day, but I was gradually growing extremely weary in the hands, arms and shoulders - indicative of the continual strength to wrestle the bike and keep it upright in the 'contrary' winds.

I didn't mind occasionaly stopping to take in the spectacular views despite the wind.

 Lorne was a memorable visit. At the Visitor Information Centre I arranged somewhere to stay at Apollo Bay thus locking in my goal for the day. I went to the 'loo', and couldn't 'go' because there was no loo paper. I came out with the intention of making a polite comment to the lady at the counter, only to find a woman waiting outside the toilet door. She looked surprised, but not as shocked as me to realise that I had actually gone to the 'women's! I decided NOT to tell the woman at the counter about the lack of paper in the ladies loo! I decided to skip lunch, but sat on the lookout as I left Lorne. Out of the wind, the sights were glorious.

It was now 2pm and I started the final struggle for the 44k to Apollo Bay. The conditions were deplorable, and all I wanted was to get in out of the wind, but had little choice but to keep pressing on. It was continuous spectacular views. I passed several different cyclists coming the other way enjoying the wind to their backs. The last of these stopped to talk. He said he would normally ride to Lorne and return to Apollo Bay for his ride, but due to the wind he would probably call his wife to come and collect him from Lorne.

As we parted, I told him "Don't be such a wimp"! He didn't even smile.

At last Apollo Bay. It was 5:10pm and very cold now. My legs were still good, but my otherwise aged body was beyond all strength. I have a cheap room with brekky in the price, and glad to be finally out of the wind. Again, the young couple in charge display genuine hospitality. "Hi Kelvin" as I walked in the door was music to my weary ears. Hosed the grubby bike but so weary all I felt like doing was lying down. The shower helped, and enjoyed 'chicken parmegama' at the local pub. My two days have been a human struggle, and more to come. The winds are promised tomorrow.

I am 44k short of my plan. I rang the roadhouse at Lavers Hill where I was due to be tonight. I will see him tomorrow, but all talk is about the huge climb to Lavers Hill. I have a few days yet, but I am tempted to stay the night at Lavers Hill and enjoy the lighter day, but perhaps cut out Goolwa in order to catch up with the program.

Today however was great. Hey, no flat tyres!! I repaired 3 tubes overnight, and a 4th this morning because the 'fixed' one on the bike went flat again overnight. However, having sorted it, the tyres were fabulous all day.

This pilgrimage is recognition of the greatness of God in creation. The earth is truly 'the Lord's".

KRA