Day 6 (Sept 15) - Portland to Mt Gambier - 108k

Morning came around very quickly. The Motel I secured last evening was probably the cheapest and least attractive, but I was thoroughly spoilt by the very beautiful room and inclusions. Some Motel owners do not like you keeping the bike in the room, but this one was quite fine about it. I was slow to get going, anticipating another gruelling day into the wind. However, as I checked outside, I could see lovely blue sky and all trees were perfectly still. The Motel owner shared her joy with me. However, it was short lived!

At about 8:30am I headed out of town to pick up the alternative route to Mt Gambier. It was a bit of a gamble - it cut through the Glenelg National Park, hugging closer to the coast than the Princes Highway. The 'Henty Highway' as it was called, was shorter by some 5-10k, but appeared to be cutting through hilly if not mountainous terrain, according to the map's contours. However, I thought it might be more protected from the winds, gallantly choosing hills to the wind! It proved a good choice.

First objective was the locality of Mt Richmond, presumeably not called 'Mount' for nothing. However, without wind, and a good road with reasonable traffic, the bike ticked along nicely, even up into the 20's kph at times. Sadly, the weather closed in, and for the rest of the day the wind picked up, it rained consistently on and off, and it felt as cold as winter at times. Mt Richmond comes at 32k, and it was my first chance for a 'breather' and a few 'M&M's as a reward for hard but consistent riding. According to my GPS on board, Mt Richmond comes at 150mtrs elevation, with the road climing gradually since Portland.

Hills are okay, because it usually means compensating downhill runs as well, and today was a lovely mixture of both. This is actually all tall timber country, mostly forested 'pine', and the Henty is a thoroughfare for timber trucks. They passed all day both ways. I have to give it to them though, they were most courteous - they usually drove by a lane wide, and/or signalled they were coming from behind by a very brief blast on their horns. My right arm was weary having waved at every truckie all day - I consider it an investment because they will have an improved opinion of cyclists.

Next goal was the only town on the road today - the beautiful little river hamlet of Nelson, at the 68k mark and tucked nicely around the mouth of the majestic Glenelg River. It was a long morning session, averaging better than usual but just under 17kph, so work out how long my legs were circulating to get the bike to Nelson. It is a practice to take a photo of the town sign, but in this case I thought the River was a much nicer image. It is a sleepy little hollow, with river craft for tourists, fishing and the world's best hambugers at the River kiosk!

It didn't seem like a long way to get to Mt Gambier, but at an improving 17kph it was still another 2 hours at least. Just past the Glenelg River is the South Australian State border, where passports are not required but you have to ditch all fruit and vegetable. Who would know if you didn't. I had none on board except a dozen meusli bars, but I didn't think they counted. I was also happy to gain 30mins time change. You can see how flat the road was now, although nothing is flat on a bike.

People often ask me what I think about all day on a bike when there is no one with whom to speak. Its amazing how the time passes, but usually my mind is focussed on things of considerable significance. For example today I began working out just how many times my right leg would turn the bike pedals in the course of a single kilometre. So I did several time trials, working out that when in an average gear on a reasonable terrain, both legs would complete 25 revolutions every one hundred metres. Extrapolating that over the course of one kilometre, that would be 250 revolutions, and extrapoloated further over the course of a ride like today, that would mean that each leg would turn over 25,000 revolutions of the pedals. You could emulate this yourself. Sit on a gym bike - all day - and dont stop pedaling until 6-7 hours have passed, ensuring that you set the machine for regular reasonable to hard resistance. At the same time, have someone turn the hose on you for most of the day, and another to occasionally drench you with a bucket of water while having a stiff fan blowing into your face. That will give you a small insight into just one normal day on a cycle tour. This is what I see most of the day.....

At 105k the welcome sign to Mt Gambier was a lovely sight. The previous 20k was undulating to hilly, but for some reason I was really riding the bike for all its worth, remaining mostly between 20-30kph, but feeling it as I came into the city limits. I had phoned ahead to 'The Commercial', an old pub in the middle of town. It would be my home for two nights.

My body has been through a lot in the past six days. In reflecting along the road today, in true creation theology I have done hard labour for 6 long days, and it was only right that I allow the body to enjoy a day of Rest. Today I could barely lift my leg over the bike. My back is in pain, and my legs have turned the bike some 150,000 rotations each, with some considerable climbs such as the 20k up to Laver's Hill. God rested after six days, therefore I will do the same.

The pub is lovely. The room is $30 (just a bit more than an unpowered site at the caravan park!). The toilets and showers are dual gender, so that will be interesting. The staff who welcomed me are typical of the lovely graciousness that I have found all along the way.

Mt Gambier takes its name from the Mt Gambier crater, sited in 1800 by Lieut James Grant from the survey brig Lady Nelson. He called it Mt Gambier after Lord James Gambier, the Admiral of the Fleet. More about that tomorrow after I explore some of the marvels of this place.

I must say my heart was strangely warmed when President Obama opened the 9/11 Memorial service with the words of Psalm 46 "God is our refuge and strength, an ever present help in trouble. Therefore, we will not be afraid.....". It is a good thought to end this day.

KRA