I had a great night's sleep in this low cost inner city motel in downtown Warnambool. The news wasn't great. Firstly, the rain was pouring outside, and the news on the headwinds was again discouraging, to say the least. "Strong winds NW all day" blared the radio, exactly the direction in which I would be riding all day.
I couldn't take off early because I was waiting for the Bike Shop to open at 9am. The rear tyre was declared 'terminal' at the end of yesterday's ride. There was clearly something inside the tyre that was causing continual 'flats', although it has been good for two days, until coming in to Warnambool last night. I was all packed by 9am, but had to walk the bike to the shop about 1k away, because the rear tyre was completely flat. It turned out to be a fishing shop that dealt in a few bikes. He had a new tyre for me, but 'sorry, out of tubes'. I changed the tyre, and did a quick spin of the Warnambool foreshore, before hitting the road to Portland, about 105k away.
Warnambool is a lovely, large country town. The rain had stopped as I hit the annoying winds for the day ahead. It was 10am, a late start and at 15kph (my 'into the wind' speed) it would be another long day on the bike. I would be on the Princes Highway all day. First goal was the historic village of Port Fairy, some 30k into the wind. The countryside was beautiful open farmland all the way, and actually at times when I was shielded from the wind, I was rolling the bike at a comfortable 25kph. Just after noon I rolled off the Highway into one of Victoria's best kept secretas. Port Fairy is an historic Port, with a cute main street, dozens of historicly beautiful cottages and friendly people. A bunch of local cyclists was having coffee, so instant conversation started up.
By 1pm I again turned into the wind for the now final 70k for the day. I just wanted to knock them over, but the wind was dreadful. There was nothing I could do about it but grind it out. However, the wind continually blasting at my face and head was wearing down my patience. I came across the cute little General Store at Yambuk, about half way to Portland. This is historic country. The grand old Australian homesteads were everywhere, some tantalisingly for sale. My spirits were lifted when I saw two cycle tourists coming from Portland. They were also happy to stop and chat. They were young, and riding to Melbourne from Adelaide but had already made up their minds not to ride the Great Ocean Road due to its reputation. I wanted to talk them out of it, having experienced the incredible courtesy of traffic and the life changing views, but I could't impose the merciless climb back over Laver's Hill upon them. They were lovely young people. Hopefully Jen and Jake, please forgive me if I have your names incorrect, but thanks for stopping and making a nice moment in a day that was nothing but strenuously hard work.
I thought you might be interested in what I see most of the day. If you can read the computer, you will see I have just registered 100k for the day, on the final run into Portland. Incidentally, Jen gave me one piece of good news. I met them at the 60k mark, with 44k to go.Up ahead, someone years before had planted trees alongside the road, and this was typical of the remainder of the journey. The trees amazingly blocked the wind, enabling a much more robust ride for the final 40k. Sadly, the rear end (my rear end) is not faring as well as the new tyre, and it makes for a very uncomfortable seating position for any length of time. I haven't suffered like this for many years, but it seems to come when completely saturated....which for me has been from day one.
Portland is as the name suggests - a most attractive Port. The view was magnetic, causing me to add several k's to the journey at journey's end to cruise and explore the breathtaking views from the cliffs that line the shores. I am always glad to be in out of the weather. I have not enjoyed this aspect of my otherwise excellent experiences of this glorious part of Australia's southern shoreline. I've picked up the dreaded 'lurgy' to boot, so am actually struggling a bit, tempted to give myself a compulsory 'rest' day to catch up with myself a bit.
A little known fact - Portland boasts to be Victoria's "Birthplace". In 1834 it was the first permanent European Settlement which was established in Portland Bay. The first settlers were whalers and sealers. It was Edward Henty who came from Tasmania in 1834 in search of good grazing land. The rest is history.
Tomorrow I head to Mt Gambier, crossing the border into South Australia.
Today despite the wind and occasional rain, my mind was focussed on the continuous grandeur of God and His hand in creation. I found myself occasionally singing (okay, out loud!). It was the Psalmist who said 'He put a new song in my mouth, a hymn of praise to our God. Blessed is the man who makes the Lord his trust' (Ps 40). This is not hard to do in the face of such continuous beauty in creation.
KRA
Keep going Uncle K! xxx
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