Day 12 (Sept 21) - Blanchetown to Paringa - 126k

I was awake early, although slept very well in my caravan park 'backpacker' room. It was basically a motel room, TV that didn't work but I had my own private (separate) ensuite, plus access to a nice kitchen all within metres of my room. My porridge today was nice, being cooked on a stove rather than on mere boiling water. I am gradually eating my way through my pantry which I carry on the bike, thus making the bike load gradually lighter (not much though).

At about 8am I made the extremely steep climb out of the river park, the climb really straining on the bike chain. It was the only time today that left me panting heavily. This was my final view of where I had stayed, right alongside of the beautiful Murray River.

I climbed back out over the same road by which I came in the previous evening. I was heading for the main highway, firstly though to stop in at the roadhouse so I could get access to Optus Mobile service. I was completely cutoff down on the river. I spent an hour doing my blog for yesterday, and also attending to a few emails. I have tried to be email free while on the journey, but this is not completely possible or responsible. At the moment of arrival, this massive 'wide load' pulled in also, for fuel I suspect. Having attended to 'business', it was time to do business on the road. My face was now turned in the direction of home.

These houses are so cute. This is a remarkably well preserved example of the pioneering era of this riverland district. This one commands beautiful views of the orchards and vineyards, as well as the mighty Murray.

Actually the above photo looks back on Blanchetown. The bike was rolling well today. The weather was fine. There was a slight fresh breeze to my tail. This would be a long stretch today. The river went north from Blanchetown to Morgan, but I was cutting across country to meet it again when it found its way SE from Morgan. The country was dry. The first place of habitation was Waikerie, some 45k from Blanchetown. It was a matter of putting the 'pedal to the metal' and getting there as fast as possible. Approaching Waikerie, the beautiful orchards and vineyards take over completely from the dry, desert like country. It really is a photographic paradise. Of course at Waikerie, the great River meets again having come back from Morgan. I called in at the Information Centre to check on a place to stay at Renmark.

I met these beautiful people. I am remiss sometimes in not getting names, but this was a Carers group out for a day 'mystery tour'. Meeting lovely people like this is a rich quality of this kind of travel. Hopefully 'the boss' will be in touch so I can give her the worth she deserves by giving her a name. What precious people you are!

The  views of the Murray are just grand from Waikeri. Leaving the Information Centre, I had only gone one more kilometre when I had to stop to enjoy these views. This river is undersold. It is majestic, and holds many secrets from its millions of years of life. However, time was now passing. It was afternoon and I still had another 80k to cover to Renmark.

 This is a massive wine region. The views of the vineyards are breathtaking at times. These massive tanks I can only guess are storage/processing 'vats' for wine. This photo does no justice to the sheer volume of these tanks. I saw numerous of these today. It is staggering to think that they would all contain the wine produced from the vineyards.

 Cycling conditions were near perfect today. Being on the Sturt Highway, it was busy with traffic especially trucks. I had my own narrow apron which kept me relatively safe, but the roar of trucks and the resultant belting and sucking of the huge wind draught was wearing me down the longer the day went. I must say though that the trucks and all traffic was most courteous. After Waikerie it was a long time in the wilderness until the most beautiful little river town I have seen - Barmera. It was a model town, but sadly I had to breeze through and keep pedalling to Renmark.

It even amazes me that I can sit on a bike for 6-8 hours a day and just keep pedalling, keeping the momentum of the bike rolling with little or no effort. Apart from the steep climb first thing, all day I sat on the bike and breathed as if I was sitting in the lounge at home. The seat is a source of discomfort the longer the day goes, but that is quite normal. Today I felt the last 20k, perhaps because I had very little to eat through the day.

Finally at about 4:30pm I rolled into the beautiful Riverland city of Renmark. Here the river is at its grandest. These photos were taken at the city park. These views are rather unrivalled.

 I had decided to stay at Paringa, the first town past Renmark on the Mildura side. This is the first 'old pub' where I dont feel too comfortable. It has motel type rooms, but there are some unusual characters in residence. I have locked the door and stayed in, except for walking the 50mtrs to the bar for a 'counter dinner' which I must say was the best so far. The room - the TV doesn't work (normal), the fire alarm went off when I turned on the small antique air-con (no one bothered to come check), I was concerned the shower steam might set it off again so I shut the shower door (no exhaust fan of course0. The carpet is grose. I make a habit of NEVER checking under the sheets or the pillow slips.

This was the bridge over the Murray on arrival at Paringa. These bridges could also tell many secrets! Tomorrow I cross the State border. I will be sad to leave South Australia. It is a huge day tomorrow, crossing what I consider to be Victoria's equivalent to the Gobi desert! It is 140k to Mildura, an almost dead straight road for most of this distance, with nothing in between. The day looks to be fine, with a slight breeze to my tail, so perfect if it turns out that way tomorrow. I wont see anything of the river until Mildura. It has to be done, then I start the roll down the border between Victoria and NSW.

 My revised plan is to take the train from Albury to Yass tomorrow week, Thursday 29 Sept, stay at Murrumbateman, and then ride home on Friday 30th September. The mountains will have to 'keep' for a future occasion.

Just finally, all day today I have heard all kinds of birds screeching and screaming in their usual way. The galahs are the worst, well the loudest. They seem to be screaching at me, and at times the noise is overwhelming. From the creation 'story' in the Bible's beginnings, we see that only 'man' was given the gift of intelligible speech. Birds squark, dogs bark, cattle bellow...but only 'man' can speak intelligibly. The same account says that man was made in God's image, and innumerable places show that God 'speaks'. I have pondered all day in the context of screeching birds, that we who have the gift of speech can use it for good or for ill. If we are made 'in God's image', should we not use our speech for building up, for encouragement, for speaking truth? My reflection as the day closes is, what kind of stewardship do I render with the unique gift of speech with which I have been created?

I have now covered 1223k with about 826k yet to ride.

Until tomorrow

KRA