Today has been a well earned ‘rest day’ in Mildura. There is a lot to be said for paying respect to the ‘rhythm’ of creation; the six days of labour followed by a day of ‘rest’. I was really tired when I went to bed last night, thinking I will enjoy a ‘sleep-in’. However, I was up early and feeling ready to explore this most marvelous place.
There are many nice church buildings in close proximity to the centre of town. These I suspect speak of a strong Christian heritage that may not necessarily be the case today. The Anglican church took my attention.
I met the lovely ladies at the Information Centre to check out a few things to do, and also prepare for my trip tomorrow. When the lady asked ‘where are you headed tomorrow’ I replied ‘Boundary Bend’ (about 120k down the river). Her response was wonderful “Gawd, why you goin’ there…there’s nothin’ there (with much emphasis on ‘nothin’)”. This filled my adventurer’s heart with a diminished sense of wonder, hoping I was doing the right thing. Just tonight, the Motel manager knocked on my door…”I understand you’re going to Boundary Bend tomorrow. Just thought I’d tell you it’s a funny place….I hope you’ll be okay. It’s a rough place, you know”. I chose to defend Boundary Bend “Well, I’ve spoken to the caravan park people….they sound human enough, and they said they would sell me a hamburger”. “Alright”, he said, but I wondered if he was shaking his head as he walked away.
I explored the river. This is the bridge over which I will leave for the notorious Boundary Bend tomorrow. The river can tell a million stories. The history of this entire region is wrapped up in the heart of this magnificent river
I noticed a lone fisherman not far from the bridge. We got chatting. He was a chef at the local club. He was early for work, so decided to try his ‘luck’. The fish weren’t biting, but it was good to chat. I took his photo, and he obliged by taking a rare photo of me. I was basically killing time because I had decided to take a boat trip down river on the vintage (1880) ‘Rothbury’ which was not long away now. Everywhere I turned, there was a photo. The scenery is breathtaking, and I must say that I am proud of my little camera which has taken superb photos.
I particularly love taking photos where the natural environment creates a natural frame. Risking stepping on an unfriendly ‘brown’, I like to get amongst the trees to get a photo that sets the river in its most startling context
The wildlife is also startling. This was a little family of ducks just enjoying the morning sunshine. This was the second family I encountered in a matter of minutes.
Our beautiful ‘Rothbury’ came down the river like a Queen arriving in court. She performed a most graceful u-turn in the river before coming in to dock to pick up her happy load of passengers. In remarkable condition, she too could tell a thousand stories. She was built in 1881 originally as a 'tow boat', but has the reputation as one of the fastest paddleboats on the Murray River. There was a surprisingly large crowd suddenly appeared from nowhere to board the old-time lady. I sat in the very front, and it took no time for those of us who were there to make friends and enjoy fellowship together.
We headed downstream for basically a 2 hour explore of the river, including the experience of the river ‘loch’. There are 13 of these along the river, which serve to hold the river like a dam at certain heights. This controls the flow of water and also preserves water supplies for the various needs of the communities all along the river that are fully dependent on the river for water. Within minutes we were in the ‘loch’, being lowered to the level of the river beyond Loch 11.
I made friends with a wonderful couple who live on a station of some 150,000 acres about 100k north of Broken Hill. They were incredibly lovely and we made natural conversation for the two hours. It boggles the mind to think that they own and manage such a vast property which they say has come absolutely to life with the end of many years of drought.
There are literally hundreds of these beautiful houseboats just at Mildura alone. At least half of them are available for hire. I find this staggering because it only requires a car licence and the boat is yours to sail up the river for your own holiday. The boat in the photo though is a different story – it was purchased privately, and as far as I know, the owners live on it as a their private residence. It is one of the old historic ‘Queens’ of the Murray.
Before we knew it, the two hour ($27!) cruise was over. For a further $5, you could buy a coffee (with free refills) and cake, which I think was the best bargain for a long time. It was a little sad to say our goodbye’s to people on the boat. We had shared a wonderful experience together; the weather was perfect; we had experienced new things and discovered new insights not previously known. We went our separate ways.
My mind then turned further to the history of Mildura. I walked several kilometers back upstream to the original ‘Mildura’ homestead. This is where it all began. Apparently ‘Mildura’ comes from the local aboriginal language ‘mil’ meaning water and ‘dura’ meaning rock. In 1847 a squatter Francis Jenkins swam 900 cattle across the river from NSW. Believing he had settled in Sth Australia, he travelled to Adelaide to register his selection. He returned to discover his claim had been taken by Hugh and Bushby Jamieson who obtained the first depasturising licence for a lease they called ‘Yerre Yerre’, but changed to ‘Mildura’ in 1858.
The river became the highway of the mid-1800’s. In 1854 ‘Mildura’ grazed 10,000 sheep. ‘Mildura’ fell into bad times, but in 1887 enterprising Canadians George and William Chaffey took over, and brought with them irrigation schemes that they had pioneered in Canada, at the invitation of Alfred Deakin, future Prime Minister. The gold rush had ended, and Deakin believed that irrigation would prove to be the solution for a new beginning in agricultural enterprise for hundreds of families now in the Riverlands. The rest, they say, is now history!
I’ve had a truly wonderful ‘rest day’. I feel physically and spiritually refreshed and rejuvenated. Tomorrow begins my final five days of solid cycling to Albury. The original plan was to finish via the Snowy mountains, but it is still snowing, and for that reason along it is taking too much of a risk to take a bike through. I also feel that it is pushing the boundary to consider hauling my 48kg bike over Dead Horse gap, so it will have to wait for another day.
Next Thursday I will catch the train to Yass, sleep at Murrumbateman at my brother Peter (and Lauren’s) house, and then ride home into Canberra on Friday 30th September. The plan is to call at the office for morning tea, and enjoy my first cup of tea in 3 weeks.
I will ‘tackle’ Boundary Bend tomorrow. I am sure it will be okay.
Just finally, I was thinking about the squatter Francis Jenkins who in 1847 went to a lot of trouble to swim his herd of 900 cattle across from NSW to begin a new life and possibly a financially assured future. But he went the wrong way. He went to Adelaide to register his ‘find’ rather than to Melbourne, and while he was away, the Jamieson brothers had legally taken what could have been his own, for want of going the right way.
These have been good days for me to reflect more deeply about life. We are faced with decisions about ‘right’ directions on most if not all days. Tomorrow I will find my way to Boundary Bend by following the sign as I leave Mildura. If Jenkins had had a sign to point him in the right direction, he would have ended up in the right place and taken his rightful place in history.
The Bible gives many signs, but one of the best comes from the mouth of Jesus, regarding direction for life “Seek first the Kingdom of God, and all other things will be added to you”. I will never regret that a long time ago I followed this direction. Unlike Jenkins, I have no regrets.
Boundary Bend…….tomorrow, an early start. Until then….
KRA
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