Day 9 (Sept 18) - Naracoorte to Tintinara - 147k

I rolled out of Naracoorte just after 8am for what was going to be a very big day. In order to be at Murray Bridge by tomorrow night, either today or tomorrow had to be a '150k' day. I chose today, and chose wisely. Firstly - NO WIND today. It was calm, a blue sky with only the slightest breath of breeze into the afternoon. Conditions for cycling were perfect. My knees were in pain however from the day before, so I was conscious that despite the huge distance, I had to allow the knees to be protected and nursed today.

According to the GPS at end of day, the road dropped in altitude by a whole 40mtrs over the course of the 147k - in other words a very flat run today, so much so that I found myself looking forward to any slight hills to allow some relaxation down the other side. However, not today. It was all pedalling.

Some 30k out of Naracoorte was the first signs that Adelaide was coming into the picture. I was aiming for Padthaway for morning tea, the first break and then Keith for lunch, the second break. The little hamlet of Tintinara never once got a mention on any signboard.

 Much of the first 100k was beautiful wine country. However, I am always intrigued by the good old Aussie windmill, and saw my chance to get a photo of which also featured the bike. This was it. This was also Orlando Wine country.The bike was rolling along nicely, maintaining an excellent average of about 22kph, the highest for this entire trip. I was trying though to spread out the energy, knowing I had a long day in the saddle.

At the 46k mark I called in to Padthaway for morning tea. This was only two hours riding, the bike was just knocking over the k's in good time. This was a 'one roadhouse' little community, and I enjoyed my conversation with the fellow who ran the store. I also enjoyed his coffee and the custard tart he forced me to eat! From there I pushed on to Keith at the 108k mark, but because the township was a few k off the highway, I chose not to turn in. Instead I stopped under a tree at the turnoff and had a muesli bar for lunch. As I stood there, a beautiful young lady pulled up with the most wonderful of smiles, at first making me think that she must have known me from somewhere. However, she had not long returned from her own bike adventure in Latvia, and was just wanting to chat. She was a daughter of one of the local property owners. I am sorry I didn't get her name, but she promised to check out the blog. She was a great young Aussie with an adventurous spirit, so much so that her bike adventure was cut short by a sky diving accident where she broke a leg. She wished me well. It was great to meet her. Hopefully she will be in touch so I can give her a name!

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The final 39k seemed a little longer in passing. Amazingly the bike maintained the 22kph average all day long, but the final 20-30k's seemed to pass a little more slowly. Just north of Keith the Riddoch Highway that I had been following since Mt Gambier, joined the 'Dukes Highway' which is the main highway coming from Melbourne to Adelaide. The traffic was faster and more furious, keeping me on my toes.

Finally, the first and only sign to Tintinara, with only about 2k to go. Tintinara is a very small community on the 'Coorong'. The Coorong is a geographical expanse in the se corner of South Australia. It is a vast national Park and lagoon ecosystem. It is a corruption of two aboriginal names that mean "long neck" (referring to the shape of the lagoon system) and "sand dune" in reference to the vast sand dunes along this desolated length of coastline.

 Just after 4pm I rolled into Tintinara. I was booked in at the Tintinara Hotel, a pub room which included breakfast. Two young brothers looked after me, even took pity on me and carried my bags and bike to my upstairs room. Once they settled me in, they locked the pub for the night, leaving me alone with a key. I walked across the road to the servo/diner where the fellow turned on the largest meal of snitzell, chips and salad for $10. It was a meal fit for an army, not just a single foot soldier. At the pub I discovered a treasure. The local footy team who had won the grand final this weekend, did their 'pub crawl'  with this beautiful old  bicycle - a Malvern Star no less. It was now left abandoned, so I put in a good word for my wife Julie who I know would treasure it. They may just ship it home. What a lovely home coming gift it will be for Julie!

Just finally, as I have reflected on the day, I have thought of several things. Firstly the sense of isolation in this long stretch of the 'Coorong'. Secondly, the beautiful vineyards which have been provided good company for me for at least the first part of today. I took time out to stare at the vineyards, and thought again about those well known words of Jesus in John 15. "I am the vine. You are the branches". Today I saw the truth of this in a new light. Life can too often feel as isolated as being in the middle of the Coorong. But with our lives enjoined with His life, life takes on a whole new meaning.

Tomorrow I reach the Murray River.

Until then...

KRA

Day 8 (Sept 17) - Mt Gambier to Naracoorte - 105k

It was sad to leave Mt Gambier. I was up early, packed and on the road by 8:30am, calling first at the Englebrecht Cave, yet another limestone cave under the city of Mt Gambier. It was locked and my photo does no justice to this under ground labrynth which is a mecca for serious cave divers. It was first explored in 1884. History says that the German Whiskey distiller Carl Engelbrecht used the cave in 1885 for dumping his waste and bottles. Oddly, it now carries his name!

Sadly, the wind was strong from NNE and straight into my face. However the body was fresh and I could feel fitness in turning the pedals, and the bike cruised over the hills out of town to the north. Both sides was just beautiful cattle farming country, mostly dairy farming. I love cows, so was devastated when I came across this beautiful herd. This precious cow had somehow got its head stuck in one of the hundreds of stacked car tyres in the paddock. I wanted a word with the farmer! The only consolation was that she was clearly overdue for milking, so hopefully the farmer would soon relieve the poor girl of her annoying burden.

 I was cruising! Today was the fastest day of the whole journey. I was planning to turn off 10k before Naracoorte to visit the magnificent limestone caves in the National Park. However, calamity intervened. I was just 1k from Penola (about half way) and I could sense a thump thump from the front tyre. I thought it had picked up a lump of tar. When I pulled up, it was not tar at all - the tyre had developed a lump the size of a marble. I quickly went to release pressure from the valve when ...BANG.....it exploded like a gunshot.I was now in a 'pickle' - I carry spare tubes but not spare tyres. The tube was ruined, and the tyre was all but destroyed. I managed to heavily tape the inside of the tyre with 'gaffa' tape (never tour without this!), as well as the outside. It wasn't just a mere hole, it was severely shredded, now held together only by gaffa tape. In addition, I lined the inside of the tyre with a $10 note! Don't laugh, its an old cyclist's remedy.

 The bike always looks so sad when pulled apart for repairs. The sight of the tyre was rather distressing though. I had a long way to go, and I did assume there would be no bike shop at Penola, just down the road.

 So, looking like a bandaged, wounded animal I tentatively rode into Penola where I had always intended to stop for coffee and toasted sandwich. I chose the right cafe. One of the wonderful things about cycle touring is meeting people of outstanding quality. Leanne Pitman is owner manager of the "Cafe on the Park" just tucked away off the main street of Penola. Leanne could not do enough for me. I think she rang every bloke in this small town who owned a bike while telling me to sit down and drink my coffee! She then rang stores in Naracoorte, aware that within minutes they would close (it was Saturday remember). Before the coffee was finished, Leanne put the phone to my ear - she had tracked down Greg and Julie Shepherd who own "Greg Shepherd Cycles" at Naracoorte. "No worries Kelvin, I will not close until you get here". It was 2-3 hours away into the wind!

So with my bandaged tyre, I 'time trialled' it all the way to Naracoorte, still 55k away. Amazingly I averaged above 20kph with my load, and stopping twice to re-bandage my tyre. Penola of course is wine country. This was the site for most of the journey after leaving Penola.

At just on 3pm, and 2.5hrs after leaving Penola, I rolled into yet another of Australia's best kept secrets. Naracoorte is a beautiful small town which is steeped in history, especially its Scottish Presbyterian heritage. I easily found Greg and Julie's bike shop and was impressed at the high quality and professional presentation of the shop. Julie and Greg are 'salt of the earth' people. I felt I was immediately amongst friends. They would not let me do anything - they immediately went to work, selecting a tyre, ripping off the old shredded creature that had somehow held together for the last 55k. Julie looked after me while I watched Greg masterfully work the new stiff tyre on to my wheel. True professionals will not use tools - I watched as Greg worked the rubber on to the rim with his bare hands with nothing but the strength of someone who has performed this art for a long time. People like Greg and Julie, and also Leanne Pitman at Penola, deserve our business. Cyclists who buy prolifically from the 'net' deny the true worth of people like Greg and Julie. I am very glad to have met them today. So if you read this, please support these people in their businesses. They are worth our investment.

 It was an easy roll on my new tyre to my home for the night, the 'Naracoorte Hotel'. Not much from the outside, but inside it turned out to be very substantial. I enjoy talking to the staff who labour in these places from day to day.

 Just finally, I have been watching the lillies for many days now. They seem to grow 'in the wild', are not closely vegetated, but nevertheless seem 'natural' in this part of the country. These 3 lillies were actually in the bush, almost lost in the ferns and natural scrub of the thick bush alongside the road. In my many hours on the road today, Ive been thinking about the lillies. Jesus said "Consider the lillies - they neither labour nor spin, yet not even Solomon in all his splendour was ever as beautiful as these". There are things I can do, and many things I can't. The lily reminds me that real beauty is beyond my doing - it comes from the one who bids "consider the lillies".

Until tomorrow.

KRA

Day 7 (Sept 16) - Rest Day - Mt Gambier

It has been the most fabulous day! It all started with a bath. Thank the Lord for these good old fashioned pubs originally designed by a decent English gentleman. I think the pub was built around the bath. It was a good way to start the day.

As I approached Mt Gambier late yesterday, I could see off in the distance this very distinctive tall castle like landmark that stood out like a tall citadel rising out of a flat plain. I was thinking that I was grateful my ride didn't end on that. Well in fact it did. The tall citadel is actually the top edge of an extinct volcano around which Mt Gambier is built, the Volcano being called 'Mt Gambier' by Lieut James Grant when he sighted it from his sloop in 1800. The region is called the Limestone coast, and is part of the Kanawinka Global Geopark, and is Australia's most extensive volcanic province. So it was on with the hiking boots, and with map in hand I spent the day exploring this magnificent geological masterpiece originally inhabited by the Boandik people, sadly as extinct as the volcanoe itself.

First was "Cave Garden", in the centre of the town. It is a large 'sinkhole' and source of original water supply for the early settlers. It is connected to the significant subterranean water courses that flow under the area of the Limestone coast. From there I went to see the "Lady Nelson", a full scale replica of the original sloop skippered by Lieut James Grant. But the real treat of the day was to scale the tip of the lip of the volcano, and enjoy God's incredible garden landscape along the way.

Firstly 'Blue Lake'. The middle of the volcano contains two massive lakes, one of them which turns a brilliant blue from November due to a unique engagement with the sun's rays. Ironically its twin lake (Valley Lake) adjacent, is not affected by the sun in this way. Being on foot, the journey was a total of almost 15k (I know, supposed to be a rest day) but the engagement with God's incredible creation was worth the experience (and another bath!). In the background is the pinnacle of the volcano lip with a tower, called Centenary Tower, which I was yet to scale.

 Just another angle. The locals kept telling me the lake was not yet blue! Wait for November! It is also the source of the town water supply, and has been for over 100 years. It draws 400million megalitres annually - can you tell? Apparently it is a mere 2 metres lower than 100 years ago! However, that is not due to town consumtion but by the drying of the underground water.

 As I walked, I found sections where the earth had been cut away, revealing large clumps of volcanic rock (that looked like coke). This was evidence that the volcano was active in 'recent' history. It was a geography teacher's paradise! It was incredible to think that I was actually walking around the top of the lip of probably Australia's most clearly distinct volcanoe. There was more to come.

It was quite a climb, but several kilometres later I had not only completed the circuit of Blue Lake, but headed up along the escarpment to the very top of Centenary Tower, the highest point of the volcano. The Tower was constructed just after 1900 to mark the centenary of the original sighting by Lieut James Grant. The stones were carved by stonemasons lower down, and then hauled up by horses. The poor things. It was a very steep, and very narrow climb, the lip at most a cart width for the last 500mtrs or so. The view - glorious!

This was the climb, the track marking the actual lip of the volcano. Just left is 'Valley Lake' (ie not 'Blue'). To the right is open, breathtaking beauty of the fields to the coast, and another volcanoe called Mt Schank, also named by Grant.

I am extending my expertise as a photographer, one of the barrier breaking neccessities of travelling alone. Looking back to the Tower as I descended the 'back' side, looking down at Valley Lake.

Having my own GPS on board, I turned it on at the tower. It told me I had ascended 175mtrs altitude, most of it over 2 klm - with a mighty steep last 1k. It was a pity to turn my face to 'home'.

Speaking of 'home', this is it - the 'Commercial' - not a good looker on the outside, but it made up for it on the inside. For $30 a night it was a bargain. The girl who signed me in asked me to fill out a registration form 'just in case we burn down'. What a comforting thought, I pondered as I completed my registration details. "One question though" I politely asked "If we burn down tonight....won't this paper burn also?" It was just a thought. There was no response either, just a cute look.

I will be sad to leave tomorrow. I head out on the 'Riddoch' Highway, the A66 to Penola then Naracoorte, my destination for tomorrow. Time permitting, I will call at the 'Naracoorte Caves', a spectacular example of limstone ancient landscape. Weather for tomorrow is sunny.....and wait for it, the suggestion of SW winds at 8kph!! Yes, that means 'wind to my back' for the first time.

I have decided to cut out Robe and the Coorong coast, and head for Murray Bridge, and then also cut out the side trip to strathalpin and Goolwa. This is the only way I can stay with the schedule to get myself back to Canberra in time. As it is, I may have to make a decision at Albury. That is a week away.

As I walked around Blue Lake today, as magnificent a sight that it was, my attention was struck by another sight of stunning beauty - it was a tiny little blue 'bobtail' - a bird, about the size of which you could cradle within the cup of your hand. It was native to 'Blue Lake'. I was left to ponder then - what was the greater sight? I thought of the Psalmist again speaking of God who said "I have no need of a bull from your stall or of goats from your pens (ie the offerings of man); for every animal is mine, and the cattle on a thousand hills. I know every bird  in the mountains, and the creatures in the field are mine".

The pilgrimage continues tomorrow...

KRA

Day 6 (Sept 15) - Portland to Mt Gambier - 108k

Morning came around very quickly. The Motel I secured last evening was probably the cheapest and least attractive, but I was thoroughly spoilt by the very beautiful room and inclusions. Some Motel owners do not like you keeping the bike in the room, but this one was quite fine about it. I was slow to get going, anticipating another gruelling day into the wind. However, as I checked outside, I could see lovely blue sky and all trees were perfectly still. The Motel owner shared her joy with me. However, it was short lived!

At about 8:30am I headed out of town to pick up the alternative route to Mt Gambier. It was a bit of a gamble - it cut through the Glenelg National Park, hugging closer to the coast than the Princes Highway. The 'Henty Highway' as it was called, was shorter by some 5-10k, but appeared to be cutting through hilly if not mountainous terrain, according to the map's contours. However, I thought it might be more protected from the winds, gallantly choosing hills to the wind! It proved a good choice.

First objective was the locality of Mt Richmond, presumeably not called 'Mount' for nothing. However, without wind, and a good road with reasonable traffic, the bike ticked along nicely, even up into the 20's kph at times. Sadly, the weather closed in, and for the rest of the day the wind picked up, it rained consistently on and off, and it felt as cold as winter at times. Mt Richmond comes at 32k, and it was my first chance for a 'breather' and a few 'M&M's as a reward for hard but consistent riding. According to my GPS on board, Mt Richmond comes at 150mtrs elevation, with the road climing gradually since Portland.

Hills are okay, because it usually means compensating downhill runs as well, and today was a lovely mixture of both. This is actually all tall timber country, mostly forested 'pine', and the Henty is a thoroughfare for timber trucks. They passed all day both ways. I have to give it to them though, they were most courteous - they usually drove by a lane wide, and/or signalled they were coming from behind by a very brief blast on their horns. My right arm was weary having waved at every truckie all day - I consider it an investment because they will have an improved opinion of cyclists.

Next goal was the only town on the road today - the beautiful little river hamlet of Nelson, at the 68k mark and tucked nicely around the mouth of the majestic Glenelg River. It was a long morning session, averaging better than usual but just under 17kph, so work out how long my legs were circulating to get the bike to Nelson. It is a practice to take a photo of the town sign, but in this case I thought the River was a much nicer image. It is a sleepy little hollow, with river craft for tourists, fishing and the world's best hambugers at the River kiosk!

It didn't seem like a long way to get to Mt Gambier, but at an improving 17kph it was still another 2 hours at least. Just past the Glenelg River is the South Australian State border, where passports are not required but you have to ditch all fruit and vegetable. Who would know if you didn't. I had none on board except a dozen meusli bars, but I didn't think they counted. I was also happy to gain 30mins time change. You can see how flat the road was now, although nothing is flat on a bike.

People often ask me what I think about all day on a bike when there is no one with whom to speak. Its amazing how the time passes, but usually my mind is focussed on things of considerable significance. For example today I began working out just how many times my right leg would turn the bike pedals in the course of a single kilometre. So I did several time trials, working out that when in an average gear on a reasonable terrain, both legs would complete 25 revolutions every one hundred metres. Extrapolating that over the course of one kilometre, that would be 250 revolutions, and extrapoloated further over the course of a ride like today, that would mean that each leg would turn over 25,000 revolutions of the pedals. You could emulate this yourself. Sit on a gym bike - all day - and dont stop pedaling until 6-7 hours have passed, ensuring that you set the machine for regular reasonable to hard resistance. At the same time, have someone turn the hose on you for most of the day, and another to occasionally drench you with a bucket of water while having a stiff fan blowing into your face. That will give you a small insight into just one normal day on a cycle tour. This is what I see most of the day.....

At 105k the welcome sign to Mt Gambier was a lovely sight. The previous 20k was undulating to hilly, but for some reason I was really riding the bike for all its worth, remaining mostly between 20-30kph, but feeling it as I came into the city limits. I had phoned ahead to 'The Commercial', an old pub in the middle of town. It would be my home for two nights.

My body has been through a lot in the past six days. In reflecting along the road today, in true creation theology I have done hard labour for 6 long days, and it was only right that I allow the body to enjoy a day of Rest. Today I could barely lift my leg over the bike. My back is in pain, and my legs have turned the bike some 150,000 rotations each, with some considerable climbs such as the 20k up to Laver's Hill. God rested after six days, therefore I will do the same.

The pub is lovely. The room is $30 (just a bit more than an unpowered site at the caravan park!). The toilets and showers are dual gender, so that will be interesting. The staff who welcomed me are typical of the lovely graciousness that I have found all along the way.

Mt Gambier takes its name from the Mt Gambier crater, sited in 1800 by Lieut James Grant from the survey brig Lady Nelson. He called it Mt Gambier after Lord James Gambier, the Admiral of the Fleet. More about that tomorrow after I explore some of the marvels of this place.

I must say my heart was strangely warmed when President Obama opened the 9/11 Memorial service with the words of Psalm 46 "God is our refuge and strength, an ever present help in trouble. Therefore, we will not be afraid.....". It is a good thought to end this day.

KRA

Day 5 (Sept 14) - Warnambool to Portland - 108k

I had a great night's sleep in this low cost inner city motel in downtown Warnambool. The news wasn't great. Firstly, the rain was pouring outside, and the news on the headwinds was again discouraging, to say the least. "Strong winds NW all day" blared the radio, exactly the direction in which I would be riding all day.

I couldn't take off early because I was waiting for the Bike Shop to open at 9am. The rear tyre was declared 'terminal' at the end of yesterday's ride. There was clearly something inside the tyre that was causing continual 'flats', although it has been good for two days, until coming in to Warnambool last night. I was all packed by 9am, but had to walk the bike to the shop about 1k away, because the rear tyre was completely flat. It turned out to be a fishing shop that dealt in a few bikes. He had a new tyre for me, but 'sorry, out of tubes'. I changed the tyre, and did a quick spin of the Warnambool foreshore, before hitting the road to Portland, about 105k away.

 Warnambool is a lovely, large country town. The rain had stopped as I hit the annoying winds for the day ahead. It was 10am, a late start and at 15kph (my 'into the wind' speed) it would be another long day on the bike. I would be on the Princes Highway all day. First goal was the historic village of Port Fairy, some 30k into the wind. The countryside was beautiful open farmland all the way, and actually at times when I was shielded from the wind, I was rolling the bike at a comfortable 25kph. Just after noon I rolled off the Highway into one of Victoria's best kept secretas. Port Fairy is an historic Port, with a cute main street, dozens of historicly beautiful cottages and friendly people. A bunch of local cyclists was having coffee, so instant conversation started up.

 By 1pm I again turned into the wind for the now final 70k for the day. I just wanted to knock them over, but the wind was dreadful. There was nothing I could do about it but grind it out. However, the wind continually blasting at my face and head was wearing down my patience. I came across the cute little General Store at Yambuk, about half way to Portland. This is historic country. The grand old Australian homesteads were everywhere, some tantalisingly for sale. My spirits were lifted when I saw two cycle tourists coming from Portland. They were also happy to stop and chat. They were young, and riding to Melbourne from Adelaide but had already made up their minds not to ride the Great Ocean Road due to its reputation. I wanted to talk them out of it, having experienced the incredible courtesy of traffic and the life changing views, but I could't impose the merciless climb back over Laver's Hill upon them. They were lovely young people. Hopefully Jen and Jake, please forgive me if I have your names incorrect, but thanks for stopping and making a nice moment in a day that was nothing but strenuously hard work.

 I thought you might be interested in what I see most of the day. If you can read the computer, you will see I have just registered 100k for the day, on the final run into Portland. Incidentally, Jen gave me one piece of good news. I met them at the 60k mark, with 44k to go.Up ahead, someone years before had planted trees alongside the road, and this was typical of the remainder of the journey. The trees amazingly blocked the wind, enabling a much more robust ride for the final 40k. Sadly, the rear end (my rear end) is not faring as well as the new tyre, and it makes for a very uncomfortable seating position for any length of time. I haven't suffered like this for many years, but it seems to come when completely saturated....which for me has been from day one.

Portland is as the name suggests - a most attractive Port. The view was magnetic, causing me to add several k's to the journey at journey's end to cruise and explore the breathtaking views from the cliffs that line the shores. I am always glad to be in out of the weather. I have not enjoyed this aspect of my otherwise excellent experiences of this glorious part of Australia's southern shoreline. I've picked up the dreaded 'lurgy' to boot, so am actually struggling a bit, tempted to give myself a compulsory 'rest' day to catch up with myself a bit.

A little known fact - Portland boasts to be Victoria's "Birthplace". In 1834 it was the first permanent European Settlement which was established in Portland Bay. The first settlers were whalers and sealers. It was Edward Henty who came from Tasmania in 1834 in search of good grazing land. The rest is history.

Tomorrow I head to Mt Gambier, crossing the border into South Australia.

Today despite the wind and occasional rain, my mind was focussed on the continuous grandeur of God and His hand in creation. I found myself occasionally singing (okay, out loud!). It was the Psalmist who said 'He put a new song in my mouth, a hymn of praise to our God. Blessed is the man who makes the Lord his trust' (Ps 40). This is not hard to do in the face of such continuous beauty in creation.

KRA

Day 4 (Sept 13) - Lavers Hill to Warnambool - 120k

All hope of a dry, windless, warm day was dashed by the morning news, and a peep outside of my cosy but rustic little room. It was fogged in, blowing a gale with the morning news confirming high winds all day from the NW which happened to be the way I was riding. I made porridge for brekky and was all set to go by 8am. Louis, my new Portugese 'neighbour' who came up the mountain some hours after me late the previous day, was also set to go. Louis gets my 'tough man' award for riding up the mountain. It was a mutual photo opportunity for our folks back home.

    
Louis was only heading for Port Campbell, some 48k along the coast. We were both excited because our first 20k would be rapidly downhill, a reverse of our climb the evening before. It was cold, wet and 'blowy', so out came the gloves, the neckwarmer and arm warmers. Louis is quite a character. It is one of the great things about cycle touring, meeting new people, especially people from overseas.

 The drop off the mountain was rapid, if not a little dangerous. I was under brake most of the way - it falls nearly 500mtrs altitude in about 16k - I hit a scary 52kph at one section, but mostly managed to hold the bike to about 30kph but heavily under brake. Louis wasn't far behind. As I bottomed out at the river at Gellibrand Lower, two Japanese cyclists were just about to make the climb. I felt really sorry for them, knowing what they were about to face. They looked to me like the mountain would prove the victor! Having bottomed out, there was one more savage climb before revealing the most glorious farmland that lasted for many miles until the village of Princeton where the road opened up the most beautiful coastline and the famous '12 Apostles'. It is little known, but these were originally called 'Sow' and 'Piglets', but I can only guess the Biblical reference was deemed by someone to have more appeal to the tourist market. It was a multicultural day for me, this lovely Japanese girl delighted in having her photo with a genuine Aussie cyclist. Okay, I was also delighted!

 You will see from the photos that the day cleared, but the photo does no justice to the massive wind that blew all day into my face. However, I was very keen to make the most of this outstanding and impressive part of God's creation. The coastline between Princeton to Peterborough is just breathtaking, not only the Apostles, which are limestone stacks that have been carved out of the miles and miles of spectacular limestone cliffs that dominate the coastline. It is sad that space does not allow the photos that do justice to this spectacular part of God's creation. I stopped in at Port Campbell to get in out of the wind  and enjoy a hamburger for lunch, but fully aware of the remaining 65k yet to be wrestled on the bike to Warnambool. However, the best of the coastline was yet to be encountered. I knew it would be a huge day on the bike, but I was determined not to miss any of this spectacular coast.

 I was playing leapfrog with this beautiful family from Holland who were up from Melbourne for the day. They seemed excited to make friends with an unusual cyclist who somehow drew pleasure from suffering on a bike like this. So finally at the 'Bay of Martyrs' we all delighted in cementing our new found friendship with a 'family' photo. I assured them I would put them on the blog. I hope they look me up - they were very lovely people and I very much enjoyed our frequent meetings throughout the day. Now late in the afternoon, we parted company, they returning to Melbourne as I faced the wind in  a difficult course for Warnambool, still some 55k away.

 Leaving 'Apostle' country in my rear view mirror, the landscape also dramatically changed. The road entered the most beautiful black soil farm country. Into the wind, the bike only managed 15kph under load, and at this rate the k's ticked by ever so slowly. The sun had now come around to the west, and was now directly into my eyes. My body was screaming that it had done enough for the day, but the k's were still in front of me. The legs were turning nicely, but the body was just about fully expired. I took each set of 5k's as short goals, rewarding myself occasionally with snickers and/or muesli bar celebration.

Eventually, I came to the end of the Ocean Road as I joined the Princes Highway. The sun was now low, and it looked like I wouldn't be making Warnambool before sunset.

At 6:15pm, just after darkness descended, a very weary cyclist turned his bike into a cheap Motel in the heart of the city of Warnambool. The GPS registered 122k for the day, every k being hard work except perhaps for the initial descent off the mountain from Lavers Hill. It was another huge day, nursing the old problem again of a softening rear tyre that needed pumping every 5k for the final 15k run down the Princess Highway. It was a superb day though, but tonight there isn't much of this aging body that isn't stiff and sore!

Tomorrow I head to Portland via historic Port Fairy, a reasonable 100k (but winds NW is already forecast!!).

KRA

Day 3 (Sept 12) - Apollo Bay to Laver's Hill - 50k

The morning dawned over Apollo Bay. The bed was superb and the body wanted to stay in bed. The day was overcast, but.....no wind! The bike was ready and we rolled out of Apollo Bay about 8:15am. The tone for the day was immediately set, with a long, straight steep climb away from this beautiful Ocean Road hamlet by the sea. Looking at the GPS profile later, the climb from sea level peaked about 400mtrs before plummeting back to sea level again through a most beautiful Scottish valley .

Anyway, despite the long climbs away from the sea, the scenery was outstanding. It was wet, but the real rain was still yet to come. From Apollo Bay the road goes through another hamlet of Marengo, and then climbs again but into the Great Otway National Park, cutting away from the coast above the point where the Cape Otway Lighthouse is located. The rainforest bwas beautiful, just dripping with the wet with constant ups and downs but mostly ups. Like all long climbs, the descent eventually came with a long, treacherous descent into the beautiful Glenaire Valley. This is dairy country, but sheep and Llamas are also plentiful, many new lambs also evident. The run through the Valley was glorious, but I knew it wouldn't last. I crossed the River Aire and eventually came to the little village of Glenaire at the very end of the valley, the climb lurking ominously beyond the innocent little village.

 The beauty of the valley was only contrasted with the beginnings of the massive climb out past Castle Cove lookout. The photo above was taken looking back from where I stopped to enjoy the view, the 'castle' I now learn from the pub historians is an apostle rock formation tucked away behind the lookout along the shoreline. From there the climb seemed unrelenting. According to the GPS later, I climbed to almost 500 metres from sea level in this last 20k. The rain started again, the only consolation was the continuous pristine rainforest and occasional breakout views to the ocean dimmed by the weather.

Climbing with such huge weight on the bike is no fun. On these climbs the bike is down to 5-6kph and you just patiently churn it out. Sometimes though the frustration climbing is such that you feel like yelling at the hills, especially when they never seem to stop. I watch the computer. Sometimes the k's pass ever so slowly, but gradually the goal gets closer. I was hanging out for Lavers Hill, the very top of the pinnacle of this pasrt of the country. The rain was incessant. I was frozen, especially the feet and I longed for a shower. The last lift into Lavers Hill seemed like a last attempt to punish and break the spirit of cyclists, but not this cyclist. I was tired, but never broken. It was tempting to get off and walk, but as the old song goes "Yield not to temptation".

 Yes finally it was the loveliest of sights. This sign looks back over to Apollo Bay, but lost in the mist. I went to the General Store (above), walked in and was greeted by the warmest of smiles by Sue who said "You want coffee dont you"? She couldn't have been nicer, especially with the news that the Roadhouse where I was booked was only several hundred metres down the road. Sue took extra care, setting me up with coffee, the local paper and conversation as if we had known each other for years. Meeting wonderful people is one of the joys of cycle touring. It was hard to get back into the rain for the final few hundred metres.

 The Lavers Hill Roadhouse is a run-down but warm Aussie pub perched on top of the Hill. Paul runs it, and has 'rooms' for $20. Actually they are not bad. In my room is a double bed and a single, a heater and a TV that doesn't work. Paul wasn't in, and the room had not been made since the last guests. I was so cold, shivering and wet that I didn't care. I said to the young Luke who was the only staff at the pub, just give the sheets etc to me and I'll make the bed. He was obliging and hardly embarrassed. Despite giving me single sheets, I didnt complain and made them fir the bed the best I could. It was home, it was warm with the heater, the shower out back worked a charm....and Luke made me the world's biggest and best chicken burger that I have ever eaten!

Today was only 50k. It took 4 hrs of slow climbing at 12.5kph av. I am back in rythm with my timetable, but a day behind. When I plan these trips, I trust the Lord for the detail. The Scripture says to thank the Lord in every circumstance, and I have learned to do this despite apparent disappointments. If I hadn't have been held up on day 1, I would have been battling the Lavers Hill climb at the end of a long ride from Anglesea, and it would have been a different story. For today, this ride was perfect. Tomorrow they tell me "its all down hill to Port Campbell and the 12 Apostles (but thats a car driver!). I am aiming for Warnambool, some 115k away.

In seeing such spectacular sights as today, I couldn't help reflecting "This is my Father's World..."

KRA

Day 2 (Sept 11) - Geelong to Apollo Bay - 118k

The Great Ocean Road is probably the worlds largest memorial site. Being some 270k long, it was started in 1919 as a project to engage thousands men returning from World War 1. It took some 14 years to complete, but brought much prosperity by linking the many Victorian villages exisiting along the spectacular Victorian coastline. Now a mecca for tourists, it affords spectacular views to the ocean, but also cuts a fringe along some of the most magnificent natural wilderness in Australia.

I left my lovely 'Admiralty Motel' in McKillop St Geelong this morning at about 8am. One of the great joys of cycle touring is meeting wonderful people. Linda, who runs the Motel, took great care of this stranger and coudn't do enough for me. I arrived weather beaten and discouraged, but Linda showed genuine 'hospitality', a genuine reflection of the nature of God Himself who encourages us all in a genuine 'love of strangers'. If passing through Geelong, stay at the Admiralty!

Linda stood on the wet road and pointed the way out of town. Minutes later, it deluged as I headed for Torquay at the start of the Ocean road. Within minutes I was drenched - my shoes full of water, visibility seriously impaired, having to wrestle the bike in the high winds that battered into me all day long. I headed for Anglesea, where I should've finished the night before, and now doubtful of getting back on track - the sheer distance to Lavers Hill for tonight being too big a stretch in these conditions.

As it was, my goal was to at least get to Apollo Bay by nightfall. It was all ahead of me, but little did I know of the human struggle that the day would entail. The rain fell out of the sky until I hit the Ocean Road. The sky cleared somewhat, but the WSW winds blew with a fury all day. It was 2-3 hours of struggle before arriving at Anglesea, some 45k from Geelong. I huddled in a bus shelter, and set up the small 'cooker' I was carrying. I enjoyed my porridge with sultanas, and a hazlenut coffee made on milk. Met some cyclists in town who decided to go straight to the coffee shop instead of their morning ride - they said I was the only cyclist brave enough (silly enough?) to be out in these conditions. From here the road becomes more exposed, hugging the raw coastline. The climb out of Anglesea was probably the steepest climb of the day, the bike heavy with load just crawled up and over the pinnacle. It was a picturesque spot, but the conditions hardly conducive to even getting off the bike.

It was another 30k or so to the beautiful village of Lorne, where I hoped to make by 1pm for lunch. It was such misrerable conditions, the violent head winds incessantly in my face, slowing the speed of the bike at times to a mere 6kph! The road almost entirely now hugs this rugged coastline, with incessant 'ups' and then some welcome 'downs' but the dreaded wind would even ruin a good run downhill. My legs were surprisingly good all day, but I was gradually growing extremely weary in the hands, arms and shoulders - indicative of the continual strength to wrestle the bike and keep it upright in the 'contrary' winds.

I didn't mind occasionaly stopping to take in the spectacular views despite the wind.

 Lorne was a memorable visit. At the Visitor Information Centre I arranged somewhere to stay at Apollo Bay thus locking in my goal for the day. I went to the 'loo', and couldn't 'go' because there was no loo paper. I came out with the intention of making a polite comment to the lady at the counter, only to find a woman waiting outside the toilet door. She looked surprised, but not as shocked as me to realise that I had actually gone to the 'women's! I decided NOT to tell the woman at the counter about the lack of paper in the ladies loo! I decided to skip lunch, but sat on the lookout as I left Lorne. Out of the wind, the sights were glorious.

It was now 2pm and I started the final struggle for the 44k to Apollo Bay. The conditions were deplorable, and all I wanted was to get in out of the wind, but had little choice but to keep pressing on. It was continuous spectacular views. I passed several different cyclists coming the other way enjoying the wind to their backs. The last of these stopped to talk. He said he would normally ride to Lorne and return to Apollo Bay for his ride, but due to the wind he would probably call his wife to come and collect him from Lorne.

As we parted, I told him "Don't be such a wimp"! He didn't even smile.

At last Apollo Bay. It was 5:10pm and very cold now. My legs were still good, but my otherwise aged body was beyond all strength. I have a cheap room with brekky in the price, and glad to be finally out of the wind. Again, the young couple in charge display genuine hospitality. "Hi Kelvin" as I walked in the door was music to my weary ears. Hosed the grubby bike but so weary all I felt like doing was lying down. The shower helped, and enjoyed 'chicken parmegama' at the local pub. My two days have been a human struggle, and more to come. The winds are promised tomorrow.

I am 44k short of my plan. I rang the roadhouse at Lavers Hill where I was due to be tonight. I will see him tomorrow, but all talk is about the huge climb to Lavers Hill. I have a few days yet, but I am tempted to stay the night at Lavers Hill and enjoy the lighter day, but perhaps cut out Goolwa in order to catch up with the program.

Today however was great. Hey, no flat tyres!! I repaired 3 tubes overnight, and a 4th this morning because the 'fixed' one on the bike went flat again overnight. However, having sorted it, the tyres were fabulous all day.

This pilgrimage is recognition of the greatness of God in creation. The earth is truly 'the Lord's".

KRA

Day 1 (Sept 10) - Tullamarine to Geelong - 95k

Well......it was 'the best of times, it was the worst of times'. With apologies to Dickens, it is the only way to sum up today. The day started well. I would like to acknowledge my wonderful neighbor Mike Bell who didn't 'Bat' an eye when I asked him a few weeks ago if he would take me to the airport with all my gear - he has the car for it. He was out the front this morning before dawn (it was a 5:30am start) with lights on and engine running waiting for me. The fun started at the airport. My son Doug booked my seat and assured me the night before that the plane was only half full. What Doug didn't know was that Virgin cancelled it's morning flights and I was greeted with an airport literally crawling with people. After wrestling with my bike, external wheel, plus 4 panniers to the counter, I was then informed the flight was full and I didn't have a seat until at least 10am. I felt desperate. It was no good begging, or pleading my case about the 125k I had to cover that day.

Anyway, I suspect the Lord does this - I managed the last seat on the plane in Business, and enjoyed the cooked breakfast on the flight. sadly though, Qantas charged me for the 4 panniers (exorbitantly!). However, the breakfast was nice....also the fresh milk.

It was a joy to see my little yellow babies come out first on the baggage carousel, then my packed wheel. The bike came too, dripping with water. I suspect I didn't empty my drink bottle!

It is always a joy when the bike assembles perfectly, and I was ready to roll at just after 9am. I was starting to feel a lot better. The weather however looked foul. It got foul too.
I wobbled away with all the taxis. Getting the balance is not easy. The bike with gear was weighing about 50kg, including the tent on the back and my backpack, also sitting on the back. Imagine a pack mule. It takes a while to get the balance right, although the bike rolled along very nicely.

It was windy, and....it was threatening to rain. I was on the minor roads leading away from Tullamarine, and all was going well. However barely 5k down the track my rear tyre was flat. I couldn't believe it. Murphy's law - it's always the rear tyre because it requires unpacking the entire bike. Off again, and now found my self up on the Melbourne Freeway. It was the way to Geelong, but it clearly didn't cater for bikes. Cars were objecting to my presence, but I now had no choice - I was locked in on the Freeway. When I passed the stationary Police car who was doing speed checking, I tried to make myself look as if a bike on the Freeway is normal. I didn't see him for 5 mins or son, but sure enough here is not one but two Police cars with lights flashing - I tried to make my "is there a problem officer" sound very innocent. What a nice Policeman. He gave me instructions to get off the freeway, but was clearly troubled about letting me ride to the next exit. I asked for Police escort - and he was wonderfully obliging. Try to see the humour here - I am occupying a whole lane now of the Freeway - cars racing by at 100 kph - I have a police escort covering me with lights flashing. I savoured the moment.

The next exit took me to ballarat, and then I was lost. Then it rained, and then the 2nd flat tyre, the new one I had just replaced. It was very distressing. Time was passing all too. Quickly.

I managed to cut across country - the irony being I had to ask a Pakistani couple for directions in my own country! Third flat, and I was very distressed. The k's were climbing nicely now, but I was into a strong wind from the south, and the Highway to Geeling that I had finally reached was straight, flat and hard work. There was clearly something wrong with the tyre - it was depressing slowly and I must have stopped to pump it ( sick of changing it) several times. Then it bucketed down. I was black with road muck and starting to think there was no way of making Anglesea like this. I needed a new rear tyre - I just couldn't keep going through spare tubes like this. The weather was now a misery, the speed down to 12 kph at times, and at that rate Anglesea was impossible especially with the ever deflating tyre.

I looped back to a bike shop I passed, only to find it was already out of business. It was hard to see, and I was struggling now with the load on the bike and probably the concern about whether the bike would make Geelong. I decided to take the Geelong exit rather than the Great Ocean Road, thus sealing my fate for the night. I limped into Geeling to find the bike store, only to find it had shut 30 mins earlier!

The tyre was now flat, and I was walking the bike. I visited every pub in town to find them all full, until eventually I found this quaint little Motel, and Linda, who apart from booking in guests and sponsoring a wedding at the Motel, had time to help me hose my very filthy bike and blackened panniers as if she had nothing else to do.

So it was a day of 'the best of times and the worst of times'. I have felt very physically challenged today. I'm disappointed that I am slightly behind my schedule also, although I can still make it up.

The weather tomorrow is more of the same. However I'm safe, happy and if I can sort out the bike tonight am eagerly willing to be back on the road tomorrow.

Sorry for the long blog. I had one beautiful moment today - just before the heavens opened, I saw the first of many beautiful canola crops in the field beside the road. It deserved a photo.

Until next time. KRA

Day Minus 1 - 9 September (Fri)

Well all is in readiness. I dont think Ive ever been so organised (which is a slight worry!). Its early evening. The bike is in the box, the four panniers are packed. Actually it was rather distressing when pulling the lovely new bike aprt for packing _ the seat comes out, the pedals come off, the front wheel drops out and normally it then slides into the bike box. However, I forgot that with the front pannier racks attached, the bike is too long for the bike, so I had no choice but to drop out the back wheel as well, and then I just couldn't fit everything in the box without doing damage to the frame (it is all too new!). The worst is pulling the handlebar assembly apart, and making sure it somehow fits into the box without damaging the brake calipers. Anyway, all is done, and the bike with wheel package plus four beautiful yellow Ortlieb panniers are already in the neighbours car who graciously agreed to drive me to the airport at 5:30am tomorrow.

I am flying Business, so the weight and number of articles shouldn't be a drama - hopefully. Ive packed everything from toenail clippers to pillow slip, from coffee saches to sultanas for the morning porridge. All up it should be about 45kg on the road, once I buy milk and fruit, metho and brown sugar for the porridge. My only prayer is that it all turns up on the same plane, otherwise the adventure doesn't get very far.

Below is a crude map of the journey. It was just easier to download a google map and mark it with a pen (old fashioned method!) but at least you can see the journey in a visual way.

Anyway, all is set. The next time you will hear from me, I will be in a tent by the seaside at Anglesea, not far from the famous Bell's Beach at the start of the Great Ocean Road.